Every time I turn around, I’m hearing something new about Wellen Park. The planned community near Venice and North Port is slated to have 22,500 homes and 50,000 residents once the full build-out is complete, and it is beefing up its dining scene with a new breakfast joint, an incoming coffee shop and permanent food trucks, plus The Banyan House, the newest addition to Wellen Park’s downtown.

The casual upscale establishment focuses on New American cuisine with occasional cultural flourishes that pull from Mexico, Korea and even Morocco. The restaurant’s sparkling new façade evokes Florida Keys-style architecture, which is carried indoors, where high-beamed white ceilings maximize the sunlit interior. Two artificial banyan trees punctuate each end of the main dining room, blurring the line between inside and out.

The cocktail menu at Banyan House borders on the inventive side while maintaining a balanced approachability. Order an aviation ($14) or spicy margarita ($14), or try something new like “Hemingway’s Breakfast” ($12), made with light rum, falernum, orange marmalade and absinthe. It’s tropical and juicy but boozy enough to honor its namesake.

The beginning portion of the menu is split into two categories, appetizers and “small plates,” but I can’t tell the difference between the two. They feature standby favorites like a blue crab tower ($22) with more global additions like bulgogi ribeye tataki ($24) and tequila and lime duck tacos ($23). Bread service is also an option for $4; however, at a restaurant where entrée prices can exceed $50, I would expect the bread to be complimentary.

That said, the bread is lovely. One of the offerings is a simple Parker House-style yeast roll and the other a Brazilian-style cheese bread that leans a bit too heavy on the cassava flour. But the accompanying black garlic butter is a nice surprise that I would order again.

After going back and forth with the server about the “traditional” French onion soup ($12) versus the beef tartare ($24), I’m thrilled at her insistence that I order the soup. It’s filled with shredded short ribs in addition to the typical sherried beef broth, cheese and bread. I now wish every French onion soup had rib meat in it.

The chili dusted scallops ($22) miss the mark. While the two large scallops are coated in a flavorful seasoning blend and cooked properly, the polenta has been replaced with only sautéed corn kernels topped with cotija cheese. And while the dish is tasty, I’m left wondering if an important component was left off. A large thick-cut piece of bacon hangs out on the side, as though tossed on the plate as an afterthought just before being taken to the dining room.

The entrées, which skew continental in their preparation style, are also a bit hit or miss. Options include a center-cut filet with sauce bordelaise ($52), a grilled pork chop with sweet potatoes and Brussels sprouts ($40) and plenty of seafood offerings. Vegetarians, unfortunately, are relegated to ordering pasta primavera ($30), all too common at many restaurants that don’t offer a robust selection of vegetable dishes.

The charcoal roasted halibut ($48) is described as being served with a “sweet corn and heirloom tomato fricassee” with lobster fritters and chorizo brandy broth. Fricassee is traditionally a stewed meat dish, so imagine my surprise when a side of succotash arrives instead.

The Gulf Coast black grouper ($44) is served with risotto-style orzo and tarragon vin blanc (a white wine sauce). The grouper itself is well prepared, with a nice flake. But the pasta-based accompaniment is a bit pasty, and the vin blanc needs to reduce for just a few more minutes to remove the excess alcohol astringency.

Dessert, on the other hand, is supremely satisfying. Banyan House offers a simple selection for the end of the evening. One can opt for pecan bourbon bread pudding ($10) or New York-style cheesecake ($10), or find oneself tempted to try the dark chocolate Banyan flambé ($15) after watching it flame at a nearby table. The wood-grilled lemon pound cake ($12) with macerated berries and vanilla semifreddo (think of thick, soft and melty ice cream) is one I will dream about for years to come.

The Banyan House is located at 19725 Wellen Park Blvd., Venice, (941) 584-5300, banyanhouserestaurant.com