Hybrid grapes are becoming more common in winemaking, but what are they? Hybridization is the process of creating a new grape variety by combining two other varieties, usually through the grafting of rootstock—although current research focuses on genomes.

A number of hybrids are in use today, but you may not notice them because they are most often added to blends dominated by cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay or other vitis vinifera varietals. The purpose behind these new blends is to reduce the need for chemical spraying for vine diseases and to allow vines to adjust to changing climactic conditions. While no vines are impervious to hail or floods, they can be somewhat resistant to fires, and hybrid wines hold promise for meeting these needs.

Most early hybridizations concentrated on eliminating or reducing the unpleasant flavors of indigenous vitis labrusca grapes in America, as well as helping them adapt to the frigid winters in upstate New York. But now climate change and environmental concerns are causing grape researchers to focus on adapting to warmer temperatures, powdery mildew disease, rot and other factors that affect a vine's sustainability.

When early immigrants came from Europe, many brought wine grapevines. Usually they were vitis vinifera, the most common in Europe. Some survived, but most eventually died. The reason was the root louse phylloxera, which killed them. American vines, vitis labrusca, were impervious to this pest and eventually vitis vinifera vines were grafted onto them. (For decades, phylloxera was mostly done away with, but, 40 years ago, rootstock AXr 1, a hybrid created in the 1800s, was found to have the pest in a California nursery. Rootstock had to be destroyed, as well as any vines planted with them.)

Wine grape growing conditions in the eastern United States are poor. Very hot summers and cold winters make for inferior conditions, and humidity in the summer causes grapes to become moldy and die. Therefore, hybrids of grapevines that could adjust to those conditions became important. Some were the result of combining vitis labrusca with vitis vinifera, but many combined labrusca vines with those grown a laboratory, like vidal, named after the breeder.

Today, there are a multitude of hybrid vines created by growers and universities. Most of them were created in response to cold weather conditions, short growing seasons and diseases. The common denominator for most of these is an unusual taste which many refer to as “foxy.” There are devotees of this flavor, but it’s a turnoff for most.

Some hybrids stand alone, but most will be used to enhance another varietal or add unique flavors to an already fine wine. Chambourcin is one of these. It was created in France and is used to boost red wines. It is planted largely in the eastern United States and can be found as a seperate varietal.

California's Schramsberg, meanwhile, is the largest user of flora, a varietal created at the University of California, Davis. The winemaker feels this grape gives a unique honey flavor to the wine, even though the percentage used in the blend is small.

As winemakers confront our changing environment and new diseases emerge, expect to see more hybrid wines on shelves in the years to come.

Bob McGinn has spent his entire career in the wine industry—forming wine clubs, working in wine sales marketing and engaging in all facets of the winemaking process, including vine management, fermentation and yeast analysis. He has developed wine programs for companies such as Marriott, Sheraton and Smith & Wollensky, and consults with local restaurants. You can read more of McGinn’s work at gulfcoastwinejournal.com.