Mirna Gonzalez opened Mirna’s Cuban Cuisine in 2016 in a tiny strip mall space on North Tamiami Trail near the airport. It quickly took off, thanks both to Gonzalez’s killer food and a dearth of quality Cuban restaurants in the area—surprising, considering Florida’s long history of immigration from the Caribbean nation. 

Now, nine years after the original Mirna’s debuted, Gonzalez has moved her operation a few miles south, taking over a space near Ringling College of Art and Design. The restaurant is shiny, new and way bigger, but the reason it’s worth visiting is that Gonzalez’s dedication to classic Cuban recipes and preparations hasn’t changed one bit.

The new space’s exterior is decorated with vibrant murals that celebrate Cuban culture and beckon passersby to screech into the parking lot. (The scent of stewed meat, garlic and onions—fragrant enough that you can smell it all the way across U.S. 41—doesn’t hurt, either.) The visual panache of the murals extends into the restaurant, where you’ll find a brightly painted entrance and original Cuban art hanging over each booth.

The celebration of all things Cuban continues on the menu. Start with classic, bite-sized crispy ham croquetas ($3.50) or papas rellenos (fried mashed potato balls stuffed with seasoned meat, $3). Each is a Cuban household staple, comforting and salty, with crisp exteriors that make me wish they were a tradition in my own home. Tostones rellenos ($9.50), meanwhile, are a heartier choice, made with fried plantains stuffed with stewed beef and topped with cheese. Order those with a larger crowd, or suffer from a full stomach when your main course arrives—there are only four to an order, but they’re dense and can easily be cut in half to pass around the table. Pair those with an order of masita de puerco ($9.50), small fried pieces of pork that are a poppable delight.

Mirna’s offers 25 distinct Cuban entrées ranging from bistec empanizado (breaded steak, $21.95) to arroz con pollo ($13.75) and a whole fried snapper (market price), each served with two sides that include fried or stewed yuca, rice and black beans, yellow rice, tostones or fried plantains. Of course, you’ll also find ropa vieja ($15.75), Cuba’s national dish of beef braised with olives, peppers, cilantro and onions. Ropa vieja translates to “old clothes” in English, but don’t let that deter you from this deeply seasoned and savory dish. It’s so tender you barely have to chew it and is so well balanced that it’s impossible to distinguish between each individual ingredient—except the briny burst of olives, my favorite.

If you’re an arroz con pollo fan ($15.75), like me, try Mirna’s pollo imperial, which puts a different spin on chicken and rice. To make it, the chefs shred the poultry meat and mix it with yellow rice, peas and cheese, then top it with a bit of mayonnaise. I know hot mayonnaise isn’t everyone’s bag, but trust me, it adds extra depth to a solid foundation. It’s akin to adding a dollop of garlicky aioli to a classic French fish stew.

Mirna’s is open for lunch and dinner, so a midday Cuban sandwich ($8.75-$10.50) is always a great reason to stop by. When paired with flan ($3) or guava pastries ($1), you’ll get a lunch that is just indulgent enough—with a few leftovers for later. (And about those desserts: Mirna’s plans to maintain its original restaurant space to the north and convert it into a dedicated bakery later this year.)

Since the original Mirna’s was so small, many regulars got used to phoning in for takeout. Thanks to the new restaurant’s deserved popularity, it can be tricky (read: impossible) to get ahold of anyone over the phone to place an order these days. But the food comes out quickly at Mirna’s, so if you want to eat it at home, just order in person and wait—at least for the time being. Or trade in your sweatpants for jeans and enjoy Mirna’s as it is meant to be experienced now: in person, in its new home.

MIRNA’S CUBAN CUISINE | 2901 N. Tamiami Trail, Sarasota, (941) 316-9793, mirnascubancuisine.com