It seems unimaginable that the magic of the original Owen's Fish Camp could ever be replicated. Nestled in the quiet downtown neighborhood of Burns Court, where the restaurant’s namesake, Owen Burns, helped to establish Sarasota as the city we know today, Owen’s captures Sarasota’s spirit and history with approachable, expertly executed Southern cuisine. But as it turns out, the towering banyan tree canopy and historic downtown cottage are not necessary components of the formula that makes Owen’s a consistent hit. 

Sure, the new Owen’s in Lakewood Ranch has a touch less charm, thanks to the absence of mature foliage. And no, the floorboards don’t sink under your feet as you head to the outdoor courtyard. But the decor is lively, the drinks are strong and the food is excellent. The new Owen’s creates its allure not through mimicry but by differentiation.

There are similarities, of course, like the infuriating policy of not offering reservations, which results in extended wait times. The campy theme is also ever-present, and there are plenty of tried-and-true menu items copied from the original spot. For example, the naked fish (market price) is still prepared to your preference and served with two sides, plus one of the restaurant’s delectable sauces—like my favorite, brown butter hollandaise. The shrimp and grits ($23.99) is there, too, and continues to be a solid riff on the Lowcountry favorite.

But the Lakewood Ranch restaurant is obviously new, and with its newness comes plush seating, even more decorative flourishes, thoughtful cocktails and an array of other menu items exclusive to this location. The menu is still presented on printed paper that doubles as a placemat, but items like an heirloom tomato tart ($16.99), roasted chicken and dumplings ($24.99) and a half rack of root beer ribs (served as an appetizer, $23.99) signal that this new Owen’s wants to claim its own identity.

Pimento-chive drop biscuits ($8.99) also make their debut at the Lakewood Ranch location. Five bite-sized, toasty, brown biscuits are served in a piping hot skillet, enrobed in something called pickle butter. The result is a tender, almost creamy interior packed with flavor, thanks to pimento cheese instead of shredded cheddar, which you might find as the primary ingredient at an unnamed chain restaurant that is also famous for its biscuits. The words “life-changing” may sound like hyperbole, but I assure you, these biscuits have ruined all others for me. They’re that good.

The wood-grilled New York strip ($51.99) is also new. It’s served sliced atop a bed of whipped potatoes and accompanied by enormous onion rings and roasted asparagus. It’s a heaping plate that can be made even bigger with the addition of a lobster tail ($24.99) if you’re in a surf-and-turf mood. While the dish reads a bit more steakhouse than down-home Southern, it pairs beautifully with my Manhattan-inspired cocktail, named for The Andy Griffith Show’s best character,
Barney Fife ($14.99).

The Opie Taylor tea ($12.99) is named for another character on the show, but don’t be fooled into thinking it’s for kids. Peach moonshine mixed with sweet tea and lemon is so refreshing it could be straight out of Mayberry. But be careful, because it goes down easy, and one too many may land you straight in Fife’s jail.

When it comes to dessert, the options in Lakewood Ranch are nearly identical to the flagship restaurant. Bourbon pecan pie ($9.99) remains a crowd favorite, as does tart Key lime pie ($9.99) and an old-timey root beer float ($7.99). Any and all are great ways to end a meal.

As someone who has been a loyal patron of the original Owen’s since the beginning, bringing every visitor who comes to town to experience the magic and the meals, I never expected a shiny, new version to captivate me the way Owen’s in Lakewood Ranch has. When the restaurant opened, Paul Caragiulo, one of the Caragiulo family members who own and operate both restaurants, compared the process of designing and running a restaurant as akin to making a movie. You’re not just making food for people; you’re creating an immersive experience.  Following that metaphor, you might think of the new Owen’s as one of those sequels that actually lives up to the original. It’s bigger, flashier and features familiar characters while also introducing plenty of new lore.

Love the original? You’ll likely love this one, too.

Owen's Fish Camp | 6516 University Parkway, Lakewood Ranch | (941) 951-
5052, owensfishcamp.com