At this well-loved neighborhood pizza joint, the gem of the menu is its $13 stromboli. The restaurant bundles together several different ingredient packages inside long, eye-shaped parcels of astounding dough. Vegetarians can go wild with the eatery’s Northerner, which packs in fried strips of eggplant, sweet tomato sauce and gooey mozzarella. The eggplant somehow remains crispy even when buried by those other powerful flavors, and the barest essence of sweetness in the dough sets off the cheese’s cream and fat.