At Sardinia, after agonizing over which of the pastas to choose, we might yield to the enticement of a half order of culurgiones, Sardinian ravioli stuffed with pecorino cheese, orange zest, and sauced with a dollop of tomato. Unless we are tempted by the sausages or the roasted pork chop, we follow with fish. Like nearly every dish, including a fragrant ricotta tart, it is cooked in a wood-burning oven that is lit in the afternoon to make Sardinian sheet music bread. By dinnertime, it is ready to cook the customers’ orders. Chef Dino plays that oven with the control that a virtuoso applies to his instrument, extracting from it the modulations of flavor and texture that distinguish Sardinia’s refined cuisine.