Darrell's menu showcases what constitutes premier eating in the South. Brisket, pulled pork and ribs are the big favorites. On a good day during tourist season, chef/owner Darrell Hornberger sends about 50 pounds of ribs out from his kitchen. St. Louis-style ribs (hand trimmed by Hornberger and rubbed with his own spice blend before smoking for 10 hours) come with three house-made sauces: sweet-mild, North Carolina style and hot-spicy. A full rack is $19. The meat is tender and succulent, just the way it should be, not fall-off-the-bone but an easy gentle tug with the right texture and chew. The fried chicken isn’t far behind the ribs. Order just dark or white meat or a combination of four mixed pieces ($16). The chicken is cooked to order, so have an appetizer during the 15-minute wait. The batter is light and fairly crisp and the chicken isn’t one second overcooked. Nor is the batter overly seasoned. What comes through is the taste of chicken with a bit of crunch. Have your ribs, fish or meat with two sides for a full meal. Hornberger brags on his mac and cheese . The gumbo with andouille sausage and chicken chunks has substantial kick and is full of okra. It’s $4 for a cup and $7 for a big bowl. Also good: the fried green tomatoes, both as an appetizer and a side dish. Desserts are banana pudding, pecan pie and seasonal fruit cobblers. A jar of dirt ($5) is chocolate pudding layered with crushed Oreo cookies and gummy worms topped with whipped cream.