This bistro and bar that seats about 100 in a modern urban environment isn't meant to attract travelers who check into the motel. Café 1660 wants to be your friendly neighborhood hangout, a convenient and dependable place for breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch in the ballroom. And it has its own entrance on the street.

The principal partner is John Ganley, who owns Cosimo's Brick Oven at Westfield Southgate Plaza. Cosimo's is a Mediterranean mall restaurant that Ganley has made a destination eatery for most of Sarasota. He thinks he can do the same for Café 1660 with a straightforward American menu, moderate prices and relaxed ambiance.

The chef at Café 1660 is Shane Dabney, a graduate of Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Ore., and a veteran of hotels, country clubs, tony restaurants and even such fun places as Planet Hollywood and Bahama Breeze.

The dinner menu lists about 10 entrées with the average price around $17. For $2.95 extra you can add a cup of soup or a side salad. Expect American bistro fare, such as rack of lamb glazed with cabernet honey and served with wild mushrooms, a really flavorful buy at $20.95. Veal meat loaf, pan-roasted red snapper, grilled filet tips, roasted chicken, marinated pork chops and filet mignon round out the usual suspects. A Café 1660 recipe for salmon baked in a bath of champagne with roasted fennel, baby spinach and tomato and served with mushroom risotto is a definite winner at only $15.99.

Pasta favorites, sandwiches, various soups and a full range of pizzas are available at suppertime as well as lunch. Desserts are the ubiquitous crème brûlée, tiramisu and chocolate mousse. But Dabney gets creative with his cinnamon scone and marinated strawberries topped with vanilla ice cream. Desserts average $6.

The food at Café 1660 isn't meant to stun you with artsy presentation or fusion-bizarre combinations of exotic ingredients. It's meant to lure you back when you want a comfortable evening out without a lot of fuss. All it needs now are some neighbors to make it work.

Café 1660

1660 S. Tamiami Trail, Osprey
(941) 918-2610
Credit cards
Reservations accepted
Hours: Daily breakfast, 7-11 a.m.; lunch, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.; dinner, 4-10 p.m. Sunday brunch, 10 p.m.-2 p.m. Bar serves until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday nights.
Parking in Ramada Inn lot
Wheelchair accessible