The Scaloppine Cure

Italian comfort food that is also great for a diet.

By Lael Hazan

Unfortunately everyone gets sick, even Italians, although in my family we are lucky that it is rare. Recently, we were laid low by “the bug,” an indeterminate virus that literally went through our family. But even with a delicate stomach, as we recovered we had to eat. Although our repertoire consisted of homemade chicken broth and the requisite Jell-O, we also prepared the traditional Italian dish for delicate stomachs, Tra I Due Piatti, or Veal between two plates.

Carne) Tra I Due Piatti is steamed veal or fish that is not only a soothing comfort food, it is also tasty and easy to make. The veal cooks from the steam of its own juices. All that is required is a sauce pan with boiling water on which you rest an ovenproof dinner plate. The pounded scaloppine are put on top of the plate and either a second plate or a pot cover is put over it. Depending on the thickness of the scaloppine, they cook for only 1 to 2 minutes on each side. When you turn them over, you season with olive oil and salt.

Pounding the scaloppine.

I must admit that at first I didn’t know how to cook this dish, so I called up my mother-in-law, Marcella Hazan, to ask her advice. She willingly talked me through the recipe so that I was able to make it for my husband, Giuliano, and children. I didn’t know that she had written the recipe in her book, More Classic Italian Cooking. She sorrowfully told me that it was one of the dishes left out of her most famous work, Essentials of ItalianCooking. More Classic Italian Cooking is out of print but contains many such jewels. If you are lucky enough to own a copy, hold on to it.

A family task.

I’m pleased to report that all is now well in the Hazan household. There has even been a request made for lasagna. Even so… all enjoyed the scaloppine and perhaps we will make it even when we aren’t ill. Not only is the recipe good for those with delicate stomachs, it is also perfect for those who are watching their calories.

This dish will make you feel better.

Carne Tra I Due Piatti

Steamed Veal between Two Plates

Adapted from More Classic Italian Cooking

By Marcella Hazan, 1978, page 218

Serves 4

A large, possibly ovenproof, dinner plate

3/4 pound veal, thinly sliced.

3 tablespoons olive oil

Salt

My mother-in-law also prepares this with either swordfish or halibut and suggests adding.

Instead of the veal use 1 1/2 pounds swordfish (or halibut), cut into slices 1/4 inch thick

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1/2 cup small cucumber pickles, preferably cornichons, chopped not too fine

Lemon wedges

Choose a sauté pan slightly narrower than the dinner plate. Put in enough water to come 1 1/2 inches up the sides, and turn on the heat to medium.

When lots of little bubbles form around the edge, cover the pan with dinner plate. Put the veal (or fish) on the plate, in a single layer if possible, but in no more than 2 partly overlapping layers. Add the olive oil, salt and (if you wish) a grinding of pepper. Cover tightly, using a pot cover that fits snugly over the plate.

Cook for 3 minutes or so on one side, then turn the slices and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more. Cook an additional minute per side if there are 2 layers. Replace the cover after turning.

Transfer the scallopine to individual plates or to a warm serving platter. Pour over it both the liquid and creamy cooking juices from the plate.

For use with the fish with parsley and chopped pickles, serve at once, accompanied by lemon wedges.

Posted: 1/25/2010 10:03:54 AM | 0 comments