A Happy Surprise

 

 

Every once in a while I am reminded that not only do Sarasotans like to eat, but they can also be adventurous cooks. This tends to happen when I’m at Publix and I notice they have items that can be considered a bit out of traditional American cooks’ repertoire. I’ve been thrilled to see fresh cranberry beans and cardoons, but most recently I was happily shocked to see sweetbreads.

 

For those who haven’t had them, sweetbreads are the thymus glands, usually of a calf. They are tender and tasty and can be prepared in many variations. Although it might seem like a daunting task, it really isn’t that difficult to prepare them. First you boil them until tender, then remove all of the outer membrane. Although a bit time-consuming, it is worth it. The delicate flavor of the sweetbreads is wonderful. The texture is firm, not mushy, and the flavor is savory with a hint of sweet. It’s hard to eat just one bite.
 

 

Sweetbreads on the plate.

My favorite preparation is delicately sautéed until crisp. It’s kind of like eating a perfectly fried potato chip that still has some soft potato inside. Giuliano lightly flours them and sautés them for just a few minutes. When the sweet breads were first placed on the table, the girls looked at them a bit askance; however, after they tried them, six-year-old Michela said, “Thank you, Papa, I LOVE sweetbreads, they’re yummy.” She liked them so much that she had the largest portion. I can only hope that Publix gets some more soon.
 

Soak sweetbreads in cold water for one hour. Carefully remove membranes and any gristle.

Cook in boiling water for 20 minutes. Check for any remaining membranes.

Roll sweetbreads in flour, shaking off excess flour. Put butter in a skillet and heat until foam begins to subside and butter just begins to brown. Add floured sweetbreads in a single layer without crowding the pan. When they are lightly browned on one side, turn over. When lightly browned on both sides, transfer to a serving platter. When all the sweetbreads are done, sprinkle with salt and serve at once.