I travel up to Star fisheries in Cortez when I need a hit of laid-back, fishing village, hot-off-the-boat grouper sandwiches. For years I have seen other local chefs and restaurant owners wait at Star for an hour in line for a great piece of simple fish kinda place. Owen’s is that and so much more.

Now that's what I call good dinner company: Paul Caragiulo and Matt Orr.

Now Matt, ever so predictable by ordering the same thing—if it ain’t broke don’t fix it theory—shared (well, let’s just say I assumed he would share so dug my fork right into) his fried catfish with spicy collard greens, the best I have ever tasted in these here parts. In return, I shared, somewhat reluctantly, my fried soft shell crab BLT sandwich with basil mayo. I could not get enough of this succulent, sweet fried crab, very so slightly dripping down my arm as I jumped in with a huge bite, and I felt the need to cry out to all those within earshot “Get the soft shell crab, even if you already ate.” And believe me, folks like Michael and Terri Klauber did just that and couldn’t agree more.

 Fish tacos are good, but it's the side of red potato salad that seals the deal.

Desserts are fun, but I wish they would call the apple pie an apple tart—keeping more to its style. The root beer floats are going to save us all in the heat of the coming summer.

Next visit I am planning the oyster po’ boy, and on our wonderful server’s suggestion, soft shell crab sautéed instead of fried…but trust me, that sandwich is going to be hard to beat.