Like
that neurotic woman in Joan Didion’s Play
It As It Lays, I often spend the afternoon driving around endlessly, trying
to turn the blur of movement into a reason for living. In doing this I must have
driven past every house in Sarasota at least a dozen times. Some of them
have become favorites. These are the ones that I always slow down to look at,
that cheer me up, that inspire me, that touch me, that amaze me, that are full
of themes and metaphors. These are also the ones that you can see easily from
the street.
These homes range in size from 20,000 square feet down to approximately
250, and in value from $12 million to, as they phrase it euphemistically, “the
value is in the land.” And they are a group that could only exist in Sarasota. So grab a
Slurpee, get in the car, and take a little tour with me.
Theisen
House. This
Guy Peterson mansion is the definition of drop-dead gorgeous. It’s located on
Longboat Bay
Boulevard up in Whitfield Estates, where it most
emphatically does not fit into the
neighborhood. It shows how “modern,” when done right, can out-glamour Spanish
and French and leave them looking like Disney World. Note the dazzling
perfection of the asymmetrical design. Even the living room furniture (which you
see if those amazing curtains are open) is figured out to the nth degree. This
is a very viewer-friendly house and something of a showoff. It turns a corner
and glides down the street like it’s traversing a red
carpet.
The
A. Everett “Chick” Austin House.
Austin was the first director of the
Ringling Museum and possibly the most important arts figure
ever to live in Sarasota. He pretty much brought modern art to
America when he was director
of the Wadsworth Athenaeum in Hartford, Conn. His home in Sarasota (on Delmar Avenue in Whitfield) has been
altered over the years, but it still contains the Austin magic. I was in it once and vividly
remember a 40-foot ballroom with Venetian-style murals that opened onto a sun
porch of Chinese green fretwork, which in turn opened onto a hedge-enclosed lawn
with an enormous banyan tree. Today it remains a beautiful, mysterious house, a
glamorous recluse of a place. You can almost picture Norma Desmond staring at
you from the second-story window.
For
Sale.
Just
plain pretty. Think Monet. Renoir. Sonoma. Provence. Located near the corner of Broughton
and Holly up in Whitfield, where three or four other houses of equal beauty
co-exist in a picture-postcard scene of gorgeous suburban architecture. But this
house is a harmonic convergence all its own: the fairy tale cottage, the
enormous trees. And guess what? It’s on the market, for $895,000, through
SaraBay Real Estate.
This
tiny trailer
is the snowbird experience writ small. Set on an expanse of perfectly cut lawn,
and located at the east end of Arlington Street near—but not in—the
Aloha
Trailer Park, it
demonstrates the beauty of the austere. All the details, even the old fuel tank
and the electric meter, give it a presence that would have excited artists like
Joseph Cornell and Walker Evans. Plus it has a wonderful Midwestern sobriety.
One almost expects to see corn growing in the field
behind.
The
Palmer Estate
on Bay Shore
Road. Sarasota’s version of Jay Gatsby’s house, the
giant bayfront mansion where men and women moved like butterflies during that
long, glorious summer when Sarasota changed completely and got rich, also known
as the 1990s. This is where the drama unfolded. The parties, the feuds, the
political maneuverings. This is where I saw my first martini bar. The Palmers
have moved to a penthouse on Lido. The new
owners? A young couple from New
York, who paid $12 million.
The
midget house.
Legend has it that a family of circus midgets built this house (on Sarasota Avenue near
Jungle
Gardens) and the similar
one next door. Apparently this isn’t really true, and the inside is surprisingly
normal. But it certainly makes a good story, and that’s what I always tell
people. The house’s real distinction is the fun-house mirror games it plays with
proportion. How big is it? You think you have it figured out, then you look at
the front door and have to start all over again. It’s a lesson in how scale
distorts our perceptions.
The
Villa Serena.
This building should be in some Sports Hall of Fame. Babe Ruth stayed here
during his visits to Sarasota back in the 1920s, and golf legend
Bobby Jones not only lived here but kept his trophy collection up on the third
floor. Today it’s been beautifully restored by owner Christopher Brown, who sees
it as his life’s passion and never stops tinkering and improving. It’s located
directly across the street from the Sara Bay Country Club, which tried to buy it
and turn it into a parking lot. Shame.
The
Putterman House.
Designed by Carl Abbott and located on Morningside Drive in Lido Shores, this is the ultimate in a
sophisticated beach house, elegant but informal. It may also be the pinnacle of
the Sarasota School of Architecture. How could it get more perfect than this?
P.S. If you have a boat, go get a view of it from the
lagoon.
The
Cohen House.
This may well be the most architecturally significant house in Sarasota. It was designed
by Paul Rudolph for former mayor and philanthropist David Cohen. The living room
is enormous for a reason; the early rehearsals of the Florida Coast Symphony
were held there. It represents the good old days, when rich people in this town
were noted for their understated taste. After Cà d’Zan, probably the most
“Sarasota” house
in town. You can get a good look from the end of Garden Lane on
Siesta Key.
Art
Deco House.
Built by Detroit Tigers catcher Billy Sullivan (he played in four World Series),
this is one of the few real Art Deco structures left in town. It was later owned
by piano teacher Ruth DeLuca, and the Miami Moderne streamlined living room once
contained three grand pianos. This gem is on Oak Street just off U.S. 301, near the
First Presbyterian Church.