There's nothing that downtown dwellers love more than a cozy new restaurant with satisfying food and a staff with the knack for remembering the names of regulars. So they should be crowing about Cru. The name, in case you're not an oenophile, is French and refers to a vineyard. Here in Sarasota, Cru means a small and friendly wine bar and continental bistro.

Urban casual, Cru has warm yellow walls, contemporary paintings, cloth napkins, fresh flowers, low lighting and attentive service by a seasoned waitstaff. They're all in great shape because they're up and down stairs all night carrying plates. Ladies, you may want to leave those sexy, strappy little Manolos at home and opt for ballerina flats, because those stairs are a tad steep.

Cru wants you to taste new wines with your food or without it, so general manager/sommelier John Gardner has arranged for three ways to experiment and evaluate. Order by the glass with either a three-ounce or a six-ounce pour, or you can call for whole bottles. The wine list is ever evolving, with Gardner aiming for more boutique wines from small producers, labels you can't find in the supermarket or at area liquor stores. Currently the wine list boasts about 150 selections, and the range is global. Gardner loves to answer questions and debate flavor characteristics; so if you're inclined to ponder or pontificate, this is your place. And hasn't the movie Sideways emboldened us all to express a vine load of opinions about merlot and pinot noir?

Cru's proprietor is John Anderson, who also owns Pastry Arts. The chef is Malin Parker, a name you know from Fred's, where he was executive chef for five years. His menu at Cru is succinctly divided into small plates that average $9 and big plates that range from $13 for spaghetti and meatballs (with shaved Manchego to give it a Spanish spin) to $26 for a 12-ounce New York strip steak with a Stilton crust. That comes with mashed potatoes and braised Swiss chard, a leafy, healthy green that's trendy right now.

Two small plates, such as the roasted corn chowder (one of my personal favorites, with its smoky bacon bits and potato) and the spinach salad, are easily a meal since bread comes to the table, too. Someone wanting just a light bite couldn't go wrong with the Prince Edward Island mussels. The portion is modest, but the flavor is mighty because of the saffron-citrus infused cream. Sugar-cured tiger shrimp, black beans and chorizo, escargot or a cheese/fruit plate round out the little meals, although there are usually a couple off-the-menu chef daily specials.

In the big plate section, expect to find the ubiquitous seared ahi tuna, lamb shanks braised in zinfandel, roast half duck, jerk tenderloin, crispy snapper elevated with white truffle oil, or a pecan-crusted turkey breast nicely paired with cheddar grits and a tamarind-ginger glaze that lifts this bit of bird out of the ordinary.

The slipper-tail lobster comes in little shards atop a mound of English pea risotto. While not the biggest meal in the house, this one is really special. Delicately enhanced with precious droplets of white truffle oil and a dusting of freshly shaved pecorino cheese, this deceptively simple meal is tenderly nuanced.

Don't neglect the desserts. The restaurant sweets come from Pastry Arts and pastry chef Jean Lukowski. Classically trained in Europe, he's the real deal. Choose from a pear custard tart (the mildest and most unassuming of the sweets), a hazelnut praline flan, a French mocha torte (the star of the menu) or the chocolate amaretto torte. To pair with the desserts, sommelier Gardner has selected about a dozen possible wines as well as eight different coffee blends.

I've been to Cru a half dozen times since it opened and I don't even live downtown. I rarely find a convenient parking place. No matter. I'm such a fan of the food and the ambience, I'd rather walk a few blocks (and up a flight of stairs) than stay home and cook. I'm true to Cru, and my calf muscles are improving.

Cru

1377 Main St., Sarasota

(941) 951-6272

Dinner: Sunday through Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m.

Credit cards

Reservations suggested

Wheelchair access

Box Office Boffo

If you have tickets for the Asolo or The Players and you want to dine in comfort before showing up at the theater on time, you already know that nearby fine dining choices are scarce. But it's a niche that Villa Francesco wants to fill. You do your part by making a reservation, and owner Joe De Leo's chef and staff do their part in feeding you well and shooing you out the door in time for the overture.