Where can I wear sunglasses at night? Rosebud's would be the place. Baby, it's bright in there. Recessed ceiling cans plus the track lighting aimed at artwork conspire with wall sconces and pillar oil lamps on each table to make every line in your dinner companion's face appear, how shall we say-glaringly clear? The upside is that you'll have no difficulty reading the menu, and that's probably what matters most with the Rosebud experience.

Rosebud's is a family-owned and operated restaurant with six members of the Mike Kodra family on the premises. This family has been in the restaurant business since 1959, and it shows. The 250-seat Rosebud's is a model for how a medium-priced (the average entrée runs around $16), comfortable eating establishment should be run.

Bread, butter and water appear when you sit down. The servers (in red bow ties and tuxedo shirts) recite the nightly specials and divulge the price. I'm finding a lot of places don't, leaving consumers with "special" sticker shock when the bill arrives. Servers frequently check tables and make sure guests have what they need. The server presents the bill in a timely fashion and whisks away payment. People appreciate a speedy end game.

Steak and prime rib are the menu stars. Prime rib cuts range from 10 to 16-ounce servings, and the kitchen will cut you an even bigger piece if you can handle it. Pair top sirloin, filet mignon or New York strip steak with lobster or shrimp for generous surf 'n' turf combinations or enjoy on unrelated plates.

Going beyond the American penchant for Angus beef, the menu even has some Mediterranean flair with veal piccata, Italian sausage, chicken marsala, veal parmigiana, shrimp scampi and Rosebud's Mediterranean chicken-a half chicken, broiled and seasoned with herbs and lemon butter. Cooked to order, it requires 40 minutes. A side of linguine with marinara sauce is an alternative to baked potato or French fries. Rosebud's is also the place to indulge in oysters. Order them raw, baked as Rockefeller or fried, either as a meal or part of a fisherman's platter.

A tossed salad or Caesar (too mild but admirably fresh) are included with each entrée. For a dollar more you get anchovies, so why not go for it? Food presentation is straightforward, no mile-high constructions or carefully engineered off-center art work with modernistic swirls of reduction sauce. A thick slab of prime rib sits in a shallow puddle of au jus on a white plate. A toss of chopped parsley rims the edge, and that's it.

Wines are mainly domestic and familiar. Turning Leaf, Kendall-Jackson, and Mondavi are typical, but the Lalonis petite sirah Orpheus ($30) was a surprise. The markup is relatively modest by American restaurant standards. Expect a sprinkling of French and Italian-e.g., Bouchard et fils, Gevrey-Chambertin ($49), Amarone Bertani, Valpolicella ($75), Dom Perignon ($!30), and an Antinori chianti classico riserva ($30). Our choice was a '97 Chateau Greysac Medoc (Bordeaux) at $25. Since we sampled red meat entrées (beef and veal), it was a good pairing at a reasonable price.

Rosebud's pays homage to the flower, and it's not in the cryptic style of Orson Welles' symbolic rosebud in Citizen Kane. Heady bouquets of dark-red faux roses are everywhere, including a few buds on each table. The decor is fussy-Victorian with white lace curtains framed by heavy crimson swags. The carpet is rose-patterned and rolled burgundy cloth napkins hold the silverware.

Tables are bare dark wood and armchairs with upholstered seats encourage a leisurely stay. No banquettes or booths, but there is a separate function room beyond white French doors that can be rented for private parties of about 65. In spite of the acoustic ceiling and plenty of wall-to-wall carpet, Rosebud's is noisy at peak hours, but not so boisterous that conversation is impossible.

Because of its diverse menu, high comfort level, and reasonable prices, Rosebud's attracts families celebrating a special event from a birthday to just being together for a Florida vacation. A children's menu pleases tykes under 10. We also saw some date-night younger people and plenty of senior couples alone or dining with friends. Many seem to be regulars. The interior illumination may be too strong for some, but it's a bright idea to choose Rosebud's for a reliable, relaxing meal that provides excellent cuisine value.

Rosebud's Restaurant

2115 S. Tamiami Trail, Osprey

918-8771

Dinner: Tuesday-Sunday, 4-10 p.m. Early dinner, 4-5:30 p.m.

Happy Hour: Lounge only, 4-6 p.m.

Easy parking in ample lot

Credit cards

Reservations strongly suggested

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Q&A with Chef Paul Meyer, The Meadows Country Club