Queensland Crayfish Walkabout Purses

(Makes 6 appetizers)

1 package phyllo dough. Thaw in refrigerator overnight.

1/2 lb. butter, clarified

1 lb. crayfish (in natural juice)

1 T. Canola oil

1 large shallot, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 t. fresh ginger, minced

3 oz. dry sherry

1 six-oz. bottle clam juice

1 t. paprika

Grated rind of a half lemon

2 c. heavy cream

1 t. kosher salt

2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes (about a pound)

2 T. butter

1/4 c. chevre (goat's milk cheese)

2 t. kosher salt

1 T. fresh chives, minced

1 leek, green only, cut in strips, 1/4-inch by 12 inches. Drop in boiling water for five seconds and immediately put into ice water. Drain and pat dry. These strips will tie up your purses.

Crayfish Preparation:

Drain crayfish and squeeze as much juice as possible. Reserve juice and refrigerate the crayfish. In a two-quart saucepan, heat the oil and sauté the shallots, garlic and ginger. Add sherry, clam juice and reserved crayfish juice. Reduce by half. Add paprika, lemon rind and heavy cream and reduce over medium heat until you have a nice sauce consistency that will coat the back of a spoon. Season with kosher salt. Off heat, mix just enough sauce to coat the crayfish. Pour crayfish mix into a shallow container, place a piece of food wrap large enough to cover directly on top of mix, refrigerate until ready to use. Reserve remaining sauce for service.

Potato Preparation:

Wash and peel potatoes, cut each into four equal pieces. In a saucepan, cover the potatoes by two inches with cold water, bring to a simmer and cook until potatoes are tender. Drain potatoes and return to the saucepan and heat for a few minutes to evaporate excess moisture. Mash potatoes with the butter and cheese. Season if needed, add chives and allow to cool.

To Assemble:

Remove phyllo dough from package and carefully unfold. Cut a piece of food wrap large enough to cover phyllo dough. Keep phyllo covered to prevent it from drying out. Place one sheet of the dough on a flat cutting board and brush evenly with clarified butter. Place another sheet of the dough directly on top of the first and brush with clarified butter. Repeat three more times so you have a total of five layers. Cut phyllo into six even boxes. In center of each box place one tablespoon potato mix. Wet your fingers and spread potatoes into a three-inch circle. Place one tablespoon crayfish mix in the center of each potato. Bring the sides of the phyllo up around the mix to form a "hobo bag." Twist at the top of the mix to seal the purse. Tie each purse with a piece of the leek and place on a oiled sheet tray. This can be done one day in advance and refrigerated. Lightly cover with food wrap.

To Serve:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat reserved sauce. Bake purses 10-12 minutes until golden brown. Place two tablespoons of sauce on six warm serving plates and place two purses on sauce and serve immediately.

LET'S LUNCHEONETTE. You're shopping on St. Armands Circle and you want to dash into a casual place for a quick bite of breakfast or lunch. You don't want gourmet fare or big prices. You want fast and filling. Is there any such place on the chi-chi Circle? Yep-just ask shop owners, construction workers, and residents from surrounding neighborhoods about the Blue Dolphin Cafe. It's a tiny, friendly place that reminds me of the classic American luncheonette, right down to the formica tables, long counter and busy folks taking a well-deserved lunch break.

The waitstaff is informal, the grillman is speedy, and the food is your basic eggs and bacon, pancakes, burgers, hot dogs, grilled cheese, soup and salad. But, hey, this is a Florida resort town and so you can get key lime iced tea. The booths have a fun, tropical turquoise-dominated pattern, and your meal comes to the table on a large, dark glass shell-shaped plate.

I wish the ketchup on the table were Heinz, but that's my only whine about the food or the service at the Blue Dolphin. The big just-thick-enough burger is done up with mayonnaise, a big slab of raw white onion, lettuce and tomato and is served with dill pickle and a mound of fries that are crispy on the outside, hot and soft on the inside. $6.95 and worth every delicious bite. You go there.

Blue Dolphin Cafe

470 John Ringling Blvd., St. Armands

388-3566

Open daily 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Breakfast or lunch served all day