If a diner prefers a higher priced and bigger wine, he might confidently choose a '95 Barolo Marchesi at $79, which represents the loftier end of the price spectrum. In general, the wine offerings are a fine value, with enough variety to intrigue almost any palate.

As Uva Rara heads into its second season, Chef Oscar plans to offer seven different wines from his family's vineyard in Italy. The bottles will have an Uva Rara label and will be for sale in the same building that houses the pasta machine in the courtyard.

Uva Rara uses two rooms of the original residential dwelling-a tiny one with high bar stools and another decked out in more formal dining room fashion with ecru cloths and black napkins. The walls are coral-terra cotta with dark green woodwork trim. The interiors are cozy with an edge of sophistication. But many patrons choose to eat on the porch, which is surrounded with clear plastic flaps that are more practical than aesthetic. From this pleasant outdoor perch, you can wave to friends going to the movies, raise your glass to passing shoppers, practice your Italian with the waiters or just sit back and appreciate that even if you're not in Italy, you are certainly part of a congenial neighborhood scene.

Uva Rara

443 Burns Court, Sarasota

362-9006

Lunch: Tuesday-Friday, 11:30 a.m. -2:30 p.m.

Dinner: Tuesday-Sunday, 5-10 p.m.

Street parking

Major credit cards

Reservations suggested

ON THE CUTTING EDGE

Chefs talk knives.

Only members of a circus knife-throwing act are more obsessed with superior blades than chefs. Ask professional restaurant cooks what they cannot do without and nearly all will allude to their collection of knives. Most chefs protect their knives and won't let anyone else in the kitchen go near them. We asked four area chefs to give home cooks some advice about knives.

Q: What's your favorite knife?

Stephen Horn (owner, Maureen's on Longboat Key): My fish boning knife. I love to work with seafood.

Jeffrey Trefry (executive chef at Café Europe): It's a 50-year-old Dexter carbon steel 10-inch chef's knife given to me by an Italian friend many years ago. It is so precious, I keep it at home and use it for special occasions. Here at the Cafe, I can't do without my three-inch flexible paring knife by Henckel.

Giorgio Oldano (owner of Da Giorgio on Holmes Beach): I bought a Sabatier 10-inch chef's knife in Paris 35 years ago and still use it every day.

Jean Pierre Knaggs (owner of the Bijou Café): I have two. One is a 10-inch Henckel chef's knife, also called a French knife. And I'm also quite fond of my Japanese cleaver because it is so versatile. I use it as a knife and also as a spatula. I can chop and scoop. Very efficient.

Q: How often do you sharpen your knives and who does it?

Horn: We have a service that comes in once a week to sharpen all our restaurant knives. The cost is about $10 for up to five blades. In between, I use diamond point steel to sharpen as needed.

Trefry: We use an Apex system here at the restaurant. About once a week I'll get out the stone, set the angle and sharpen my knives. In between, I hone my knives as needed. A chef can just tell by the feel when it's necessary. All the cooks do their own knife sharpening.

Oldano: During the season there are three cooks in my kitchen, including me. I sharpen all the knives. I do it once a week. Every other day, I hone my knives as I use them.

Knaggs: We all sharpen our own knives at the Bijou. I do mine every three or four days.

Q: What are some knives you recommend for the home cook?

Horn: Brands I trust include Henckels, Wusthof and Edgecraft. I favor a blend of carbon and stainless steel because they do not rust and have a lifetime warranty. I also like the Kyocera ceramic knives for detail design.

Trefry: Home cooks don't need to spend a fortune for the power brands. Buy a medium-priced stainless steel. You'll need a three-inch paring knife, an eight- or 10-inch chef's knife and a 10-inch knife with a serrated edge for slicing bread.

Oldano: Every cook can use a 10-inch chef's knife. I recommend stainless steel. My wife has one that she uses in our home kitchen and she says it does just about everything.

Knaggs: I think a four-inch paring knife is also essential. Avoid knives with wooden handles and shanks that don't go all the way through. Once they get wet, they loosen and will be no good.